Basic Vegetable Gardening

The major keys to a successful garden are planning and maintaining growth.  If you plan your garden with care it will be more productive and enjoyable.  Once planted, you will need to maintain the growth momentum with proper fertilization, irrigation and weed control.  In this class, we will cover the key points in creating a garden that will provide both pleasure and hardy vegetables for your dinner table!

Section 1
Selecting Site, Planning (what, when and where to plant)
Soil preparation, Garden Equipment

Section 2
Planting From Seed vs. Buying Starts

Section 3
Water and Fertilization

Section 4
Weed Control

Section 5
Harvesting Vegetables

Section 6
Garden Clean up


Section 1

Selecting your garden site

Choose an area that has loose, well-drained soil and receives a minimum of 8 hours of sun each day (12 is ideal).

Avoid placing your garden in a low area. Many times you will have poor drainage.

Cold air generally drains into low areas and is subject to frost.

Avoid windy locations. If you must plant in a windy spot provide a windbreak.

Locate your garden near a good, easily accessible water supply.

Avoid planning near trees and shrubs. Both will compete for nutrients, water and sunlight.

Planning

Answering the following questions is an important part of creating a successful garden.

Who will do the work?

What do you and your family like to eat?

How do you plan to use your produce?

How much space do I have available?

Now that you have a few basic decisions made, you are ready to think about the layout of your garden based on the available space.

Planning on paper in January or February gives you time to get the ball rolling as soon as the weather permits.

Review Seed Catalogs, seed packets, etc. to get a good idea of what will grow best in our area.

Make a list of the seeds you wish to buy. This is also a good time to think about if you may want to consider starting seeds indoors or possibly buying starts, or planting seeds directly into the ground when the soil temperatures are appropriate.

As you layout your plan on paper, place tall and trellised crops on the north side of the garden so they won’t shade the shorter vegetables. You may want to consider the use of raised beds if your soil is poor.  The raised bed makes garden maintenance much easier.  When building a raised bed, keep the size of the bed no more than 4 feet wide so that you can easily access it from both sides.  Also, do not use treated lumber for vegi gardens! They make an excellent choice for most vegetables. I would not recommend it for corn or trailing squash.

Group plants together by growing period.  Spring crops together so you can plant later crops there after the spring harvest.  Plant perennial crops to the side of the garden so they will not be disturbed when you till the soil.


Garden Equipment

Garden Catalogs, Online Mail Order and Garden Centers offer a wide range of tools.  There are a few basics that will make your gardening experience much more pleasant.

Other items may be nice, but unnecessary…and beware as some are gimmicks!

Here are a few of the basics I like to have available:  Always buy for the quality of the tool.  They will last much longer and you have less problems with breakage.  Tools should fit your body size and should be lightweight for easy handling.

Both of these hoes will prove very helpful. The first one has a moveable double edge (action) head which is great for weeding. The second one is the normal garden hoe used for loosening soil or perhaps making your planting rows.

Garden Spade…Great for Transplanting! Also, perfect for edging beds.

Spade Fork...Great for breaking and turning heavy soils and loosening sub soil layers. Also, good for digging root crops like potatoes.

Rakes are also very important.  I like to use both the fan and the bow rakes.  You will also want to have some hand tools.  A hand trowel and a hand rake (cultivator) would be good. 

Hand Trowels and Dandelion (and other tap root) Digger

Power tools are helpful, but not always necessary.  A small tiller for the average backyarrrows are a necessity in the garden.  Make sure it will move easily when full.  Some of the newer tow wheel ones are less tippy, but definitely harder to move!  Make sure it is made well to take the abuse of moving rock, soil and plants.  Carts can be nice for certain lighter weight projects.

Watering 

Adequate water will make a huge difference in your garden yields.  Consider mulching around your plants and planting plants close together when possible to help retain moisture.  Best time to water is in the morning, early as possible.  When watering, you must consider many factors.  Temperature, Wind, length of day, plant requirements are all things to consider when watering.  Always refer to planning instructions either on the seed packet or plant tag.  Too much water can be just as bad as too little water.  To test the soil, stick your index finger down into the dirt.  If it is moist beneath the top layer of soil, you should not need to water that day.  Test all beds, as the results will be different in each one.  Many overhead sprinklers waste water due to evaporation.  Use those which will distribute to water only to the areas which need it and keep the water spray low.


Section 2

Planting From Seed vs. Buying Starts

Regardless of whether you plant seeds directly in your garden start your own transplants or purchase transplants, it it important to plant each crop at the correct time.  Air and soil temperatures are critical to maintaining a healthy plant.

In our climate I have found it most successful to sometimes buy starts, but in most cases you can start seeds indoors early in the spring or plant directly into the ground following the seed packet instructions.  If you enjoy quick results, starts will provide the satisfaction of having edible vegetables much quicker if you are careful when transplanting them.

Make sure as you separate the starts, the roots don’t dry out.  Most importantly, thoroughly water the starts in.  Do not let them dry out.  Check often for the first few days.

There are many ways to start seeds indoors.  Peat pots make it easy to plant the seedlings directly into their permanent spot. Choose a bright, sunny location.  Choose a peat lite mix for starting seedlings. Keep seedlings moist, not soggy.  When it is time to set the plants outdoors, make sure to acclimate your seedlings to the outdoor air.  Leave out during the daytime, bring in at night for a few nights. Then leave out in a protected area at night for a few more additional nights. This can vary depending on your location and frost potential.

Seeds with a hard shell, like Peas, Beans, etc. can be presoaked for 4 hours.  Then plant as usual.  If planning directly into the ground, make certain the soil temperature is adequate or your seeds will rot.  Watch the dates on the seed packets.  Your will have better success if the seeds are fresh.

Remove part of one side of the peat pot.  Then plant pot and all, watering in around the outside of the peat pot. Plant the seedling in the ground at the same level as the pot. Do not allow the edges of the peat pot to stick above the soil.  It will act as a wick and evaporate moisture from the exposed surface. The pot will break down and become part of the soil.

Table 1: Minimum soil temperatures for vegetable growth

More on Transplants

If you will be using some transplants, many do better than others.  The chart below will ensure greater success when placing your seedlings in their permanent location.  Be sure to transplant in the cool of the day or on a shady day to lessen wilting.  Water plants several hours before transplanting.  Using a starter solution will also lessen the transplant shock.  One good starter solution is 1 tablespoon of fish emulsion plus l tablespoon liquid seaweed to l gallon of water.  Lukewarm water gives an extra boost to warm season crops.  Basically, place your starter solution in the whole ( ½ cup) place starter plant in the hole, fill the hole with soil and firmly press around the plants roots. If you have windy or hot, sunny weather, you can cover the starts with Newspaper (held down with stones) for a couple of days.  Be sure to water once or twice, depending on the weather.

Table 2 Transplantability of vegetable plants

Some vegetables you will definitely want to buy as starts. Purchase asparagus crowns as 2 year old dormant plants for best results.  Buy early in the spring.  Make sure the roots look healthy, not dry or soggy. Rhubarb is also best started from a crown.


Section 3

Water and Fertilization

Adequate moisture is essential for good growth.  For the first 2 weeks of growth, plants need water to build their root system as well as the part above ground.   Vegetables need about 1 inch of water a week from April to September, depending on weather conditions.

Not only can sun dry out your vegetables, the wind can play a huge factor as well.

Frequent light water encourages shallow rooting; plants will suffer more and not be as strong.  Too much water can be just as harmful.  Testing the soil for moisture content (dig down with a hand trowel to check for moisture) is the best way to determine if a garden needs water.  Once seedlings are well established and roots are deeper in the soil, they will need less watering.

Most importantly, watering early in the day is best.  Evening watering can increase the chance of mildew.  Midday watering, much is lost to evaporation.  If you can mulch around your vegetables, it will help in your water retention greatly.  There are many good organic types of mulch to choose from…or make your own!  It also cuts down on weed growth.

Types of Irrigation

In the garden tools section, one type of sprinkler was shown.  There are many types that work well.  Choose a drip system, soaker hose or a sprinkler which will keep the water close to the ground to lessen evaporation and the waste of water.

Fertilization

Once your vegetables are established, you will want to provide them with adequate fertilization for the ongoing production.   Some plants require more than others.  You can amend your soil with the use of a little alfalfa meal as well.  Choose a good organic fertilizer and follow the directions on the box.

The table below will serve as a guide to fertilization needs of some basic crops.

Table 3 – Plants grouped by nutrient needs


Section 4

Weed Control

Since weeds extract large quantities of moisture and nutrients from the soil, it is best to remove them as soon as possible.  It is much easier when weeds are young and tender.  You can turn them over into the soil, provided they have not gone to seed.  If they have gone to seed remove them and unless your composite gets “hot” the weed seeds will be able to germinate in your garden!

Hand pulling and digging work the best in small gardens and raised beds. The action hoe is also very helpful to loosen the weeds and soil. Weeds pull the easiest after a watering or rain.  Mulching will decrease the likelihood of weeds, as long as it is a thick layer (5-6 inches deep). Also, spacing your plants closely together leaves less room for weeds!

Mowing frequently around the garden patch or raised beds also keeps dandelions and other weeds from going to seed. It is not recommended using weed sprays in vegetable gardens!


Section 5

Harvesting Vegetables

Harvesting your garden vegetables at the right time is very important to maintain quality produce.

Pick tomatoes when they are fully colored, but firm.

Cut green peppers when they are firm and the size you want. All green peppers will eventually turn red and become more nutritious.

Snap beans are best when the pod is firm (they will snap when you break one in half).

Use Snap peas from the time they firs set on until they fill the pods.

Pick snow peas before the peas inside swell.

Harvest summer squash while the skin is tender.  Once the skin begins to feel smooth or slick, they are past the best eating stage.

Winter squash (Hubbard, acorn, butternut, etc.) must be fully mature before harvesting. The skin should not puncture when you push a thumbnail into it. No hurry to harvest these until cold weather. Then cut with the stem attached and cure at 60 degree to 70 degrees for one week. Then store at a cool room temperature where they should keep a few months.

Harvest sweet corn as soon as the kernels are filled and still milky.  Fell the husk.  When it is firm, the ear should be ready.  You can also pull back the husk slightly to view a few kernels. Check every couple of days.

Begin to use head lettuce and cabbage as soon as the heads are firm.  Both of these will grow new heads if you leave the plant after harvesting.

Beets, turnips and kohlrabi usually are best when they are 2-2 ½ inches in diameter.  If they get much larger, they can become woody.


Section 6

Garden Cleanup

Once you tender crops have been harvested, pull up all stakes and trellises in the garden, except those marking plants you may be overwintering.  Hose down and allow them to dry in the sun. Bundle and tie stakes together and place them in a dry place ready for next spring.

Pull all dead and unproductive plants and place this residue in the compost pile. If any of the debris in bug infested dispose of it in the garbage.

This is a great time to turn in organic matter such as shredded leaves ( mow over them to break them down)  into the garden. Do not use walnut leaves. They will inhibit the growth of plants place there in the Spring.

Some gardeners like to cover their garden beds with a cover crop.  It works in many ways. It will decrease erosion, prevent soil compaction and adds nutrients to the soil when tilled in the next spring. These seeds can be broadcast into you raised beds and garden patches.  In the spring, till them under once the ground is dry enough to work.

Common cover crops belong to one of two groups:

Grains and grass---Rye, Oats and Barley

Legumes-Vetch and Crimson Clover

Once your garden is put to bed…RELAX and enjoy the cold wintry nights reading gardening books and planning your NEXT garden!!!

Miscellaneous Gardening Tips

Keep your garden simple, you will enjoy it much more!

Take photos of your garden.  It is fun to compare them year to year.

Plant flowers with your vegetables.  Marigolds can be beneficial in the garden, as well as adding color.

Plan your meals around what you have available in your garden.

Place comfortable chairs and a table in your garden, so that you can sit back and enjoy the beauty of your garden.

Take notes on what worked and what didn’t.  Save them from year to year.

WSU Master Gardeners
Skagit Valley Co-op  
April 19th, 2010

Created by Marla Hovey, Master Gardener

 

 

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